Rating: 4/5 (5 votes)

Open Days: Please contact/arrange in advance (military agency area – visitor access may be restricted depending on schedule/operations)

Opening Hours: Please contact to confirm visiting rounds before traveling

 

Territorial Defence Department (Ratchawallop Building) is a different kind of Bangkok “attraction” – not the sort that invites you to casually stroll like a typical tourist site, but one that asks you to “read the city” through real layers of history and real architecture. This building and its grounds were significant from the early Rattanakosin period, before gradually shifting into a space used by state agencies and the armed forces in later eras. If you like historic buildings with details worth studying, enjoy Bangkok stories where multiple time periods overlap in one place, or want a classic architectural photo location, this is a destination with real weight – without needing any spectacle.

 

The story of this area begins with its connection to “Wang Sanam Chai,” where part of the grounds was later used to build a residence granted to Krom Muen Aduny Laksan Sombat (originally Prince Urai), the 29th son of King Nangklao (Rama III) and Chao Chom Manda Khiao, founder of the Uraipongse na Ayutthaya lineage. He resided here until 2411 BE, before moving to Wang Thanon Na Phra Lan (Wang Tawan Tok). The site then became the residence of His Royal Highness Krom Luang Prachak Silpakom (originally Prince Thong Kong Kon Yai), the 25th son of King Mongkut (Rama IV) and Chao Chom Manda Sangwan, founder of the Thongyai na Ayutthaya lineage.

 

A major turning point came during the reign of King Vajiravudh (Rama VI), when the land was purchased to build the “Ratchawallop Building” in 2466 BE as the headquarters of the Ratchawallop troops. Later, in 2499 BE, the government relocated the Territorial Defence Department from Thammasat University to this building. In other words, a place once tied to royal residences became a clear symbol of how the modern state adapted – from a personal royal domain to a security-related government facility.

 

The charm of the Territorial Defence Department building lies in its strong and readable architectural language. The building stretches lengthwise parallel to Charoen Krung Road, with its front aligned in relation to Maha Chai Road. The structure is mainly 2 storeys, but the central pavilion is 3 storeys, instantly making the focal point stand out. On the second-storey pavilion façade, there is a painted low-relief emblem associated with King Chulalongkorn (Rama V), along with an inscription of the construction year – 2466 BE – acting like a clear “time stamp” that helps visitors read the building from the first glance.

 

One feature many people pause to admire is the row of 8 large round columns supporting the front pavilion. These are decorated in the Greek Ionic style – with a square base, deep vertical fluting along the shaft, and distinctive spiral volutes at the capital. When you look at the columns together with the awning and the spiral “volute-like” brackets supporting the awning and roofline, you can see the deliberate rhythm and dignity of Western classical architecture. Meanwhile, the window frames alternate between arched and straight pediments, giving the façade life and movement without relying on loud colors or excessive signage.

 

Another detail that helps reveal the building’s age is what you see beneath the eaves and at the gable. The upper wall area under the roofline includes glass panels and a long run of decorative plasterwork. The roof gable carries Greek-Roman motifs, giving the whole building the unmistakable character of an early nation-building era government structure. Originally, the roof was covered with kite-shaped tiles, but during restoration in 2510 BE it was changed to corrugated tiles – a small detail that reminds you the building did not freeze at its construction date, but has been maintained and adapted over time like other important historic structures in Bangkok.

 

If you plan to visit as a traveler, it helps to think of this as visiting a “military agency area” rather than a mall or a commercial museum. The atmosphere is formal and orderly, and there may be restrictions on entry, movement, or photography depending on real on-site considerations. The upside is that you get to see the building and its urban context without staging. For architecture photography, the central pavilion, Ionic columns, and window rhythm offer strong storytelling angles. Overall, plan about 30 – 60 minutes for viewing details and taking photos (or longer if you love close observation of plasterwork and ornament).

 

Getting There If you’re coming by MRT, Sam Yot Station is the most convenient starting point, then take a taxi or motorcycle taxi to the Charoen Krung – Maha Chai area. If you’re using the BTS, you can get off at Saphan Taksin Station and continue by boat or taxi into the old city area, depending on what’s easiest. Either way, allow extra time for traffic and possible access procedures for government premises. If you hope to enter interior areas or do a study-focused visit, it’s best to contact the department in advance to confirm conditions and visiting rounds.

 

 

A: As this is a military agency area, access may be restricted depending on schedules and operations. Please contact/arrange in advance to confirm the visiting day and time slot before traveling.

 

A: The central pavilion, the 8 large columns, and the Ionic-style volutes (spiral forms) at the column capitals, along with the alternating arched/straight window pediments and the long plasterwork band beneath the roofline.

 

A: For viewing the exterior and taking photos, plan about 30 – 60 minutes, and longer if you want to study architectural details closely.

 

A: MRT Sam Yot Station is the most convenient, then take a taxi or motorcycle taxi to the Charoen Krung – Maha Chai area.

 

A: Dress respectfully and follow the department’s on-site rules for photography and movement. If you plan to take serious photos, it’s best to ask staff first to avoid any issues.