Rating: 4/5 (5 votes)

Open Days: Daily

Opening Hours: 06:00–19:30

 

Wat Khod Thimtharam, located in Tha Pradu Subdistrict, Mueang Rayong, is the spiritual taproot of the old riverside community along the Rayong River. Widely regarded as the oldest temple in the province, its founding is dated to around 1464 CE (BE 2007) in the late Ayutthaya period. The reputed founder was “Tim,” a former governor of Rayong, who chose a slightly elevated “khod” (knoll) near the water—a clue embedded in the temple’s memorable name. Stepping into the sacred grounds, the bustle of the modern city gives way to the calm gravity of a living historic sanctuary.

 

The temple’s distinct character reveals itself from the old ordination hall (ubosot), a brick-and-mortar structure in the “rong” hall form. The gable features stucco vines with Chinese glazed figurines, reflecting coastal Eastern Thai tastes long influenced by Chinese trade. A timber roof frame gives sturdy lines, while a rhythm of rectangular windows draws natural light to paint soft shadows across pale plaster. Much of the beauty is the beauty of time itself—subtle abrasions layering depth upon the walls. Inside, local artisans painted a complete cycle of the Ten Jataka tales around the walls, with glimpses of everyday life and mythical Himmaphan creatures. It’s both an artistic archive and a social diary from an era when temples doubled as schools and community galleries.

 

These murals aren’t courtly or ornate; they’re honest. Lines are unpretentious, compositions straightforward, and the storytelling clear enough for anyone “reading” the images to follow room to room. Forests of Himmaphan and old-town scenes might feel “homespun,” yet that’s the charm—the world recorded by local hands. Beyond conveying moral lessons from the Jatakas, the murals mirror Rayong’s past life: clothing, tools, timber architecture, and river boats. Inadvertently, they’ve become ethnographic records.

 

At the ubosot’s center sits Luang Pho Khao, a revered Buddha image believed to be over five centuries old. The form is serene, the presence quietly strong. People come year-round to light incense, offer garlands, and pray—especially students, job seekers, and new business owners. Many make vows and return to give thanks. The temple, therefore, remains a living center of devotion rather than a frozen museum.

 

Beyond tangible art, Wat Khod Thimtharam has long kept a trove of old knowledge in its library chests and manuscript cupboards. Rayong was once a key coastal port, a crossroads for trade and ideas. Recently, the temple drew attention by bringing out Ayutthaya-era manuscripts for public viewing: literature such as Chantakorop, the Ramakien, Phra Malai, and even old Thai legal texts. Many are nationally rare. Exhibiting them stirred thoughtful conversations on conservation and invited a younger generation to appreciate the value of ancient palm-leaf and mulberry-paper books.

 

On the festival calendar, the temple is liveliest during Songkran with the annual Luang Pho Khao Fair, customarily held on 13–14 April. Expect traditional Buddha bathing rites, communal dessert-making in the temple kitchen, student Thai music performances, and a compact community market with local food and goods. It’s not a huge showcase like in major tourist towns, but the sincerity and warm hosting spirit of Rayong people keep visitors coming back.

 

Getting there is easy from the city spine. From Sukhumvit Road by Rayong Hospital, take Phakdi Borirak Road and then Yomjinda Road into the old town grid. After a short drive along the side streets, the temple is on the left near the water. There’s ample parking and shade, comfortable for families. Without a car, take a local songthaew to the Yomjinda area and walk 5–10 minutes past rows of wooden houses—a gentle prelude to the temple visit.

 

Pressed for time? A popular half-day loop is “Pay respects to Luang Pho Khao – View the murals – Stroll the old town.” Start in the old ubosot, spend 20–30 minutes reading the murals clockwise, noting the symbols in all ten Jatakas. Step out to the river breeze and the distant bell. Then wander Yomjinda Road, stop by the Rayong City Museum, and finish with a simple riverside meal or a small café nearby. Art, history, and daily life—all in a half day.

 

The old ubosot’s architectural vocabulary repays close looking. Despite phases of restoration, key elements survive: the kamphaeng kaeo (boundary wall), corner stupas in the “twelve-indented-corners” style, and a modest porch. Old materials like fired brick and lime help the walls “breathe” in the riverside humidity. Stucco on the gable shows coastal craftsmanship tempered by Chinese motifs—auspicious animals and twining vines. The timber purlins and locally tiled roof keep the long-hall mass grounded, harmonizing with the waterline and old trees around the grounds.

 

As a learning medium, the murals are carefully structured so both children and adults can grasp the Dhamma through narrative. Temiya Jataka emphasizes patience and quiet resolve; Mahajanaka highlights perseverance amid the sea. Some frames weave in local scenes: narrow boats on the Rayong River, a small waterside market, itinerant vendors—a living map of the riverside embedded on temple walls. It reminds us that a “temple” was more than a ritual site; it was the community’s open university.

 

Another relevant thread is the notion of an “ubosot maha-ud”—an ordination hall with a single doorway in some examples across coastal Eastern Thailand—intended to create a tightly focused ritual space. While Wat Khod Thimtharam has seen repairs and additions, the feeling of “weighty eaves, thick walls, limited openings” still whispers that intent. With the late-morning side light and the bell, time and quiet seem to settle like a soft Dhamma verse.

 

Today the temple’s role extends into education: the municipal school and youth programs use the grounds for Thai music, dance, and volunteer work. The loop of “temple–school–community” sustains itself. It’s a safe space to gather, make, and take pride in home. A child growing up with the xylophone and flute, and with the Songkran bathing rite, absorbs cultural gentleness without a lecture.

 

On conservation, the temple, community, and state agencies work together to care for buildings, murals, and manuscripts. Good conservation begins with proper use: letting people experience heritage without harming it. That means set viewing times, capped group sizes, interpretive materials to reduce touching, and climate measures suited to old lime-plaster. High-resolution imaging and a digital catalog of manuscripts are also important so the knowledge survives in both physical and digital form.

 

Photographers will find both architecture and courteous street-portrait moments. Early light around 07:00–08:30 casts long shadows of the boundary wall across brick paths. Late afternoons bring soft light and river clouds. Tip: don’t stand too close to the wall—step back a pace or two to keep the ubosot’s lines true—and avoid flash indoors to respect others and protect pigments.

 

Visitor tips: dress modestly in calm tones; wear shoes easy to slip on and off; carry a light shawl if needed. Bring small cash for donations or community stalls. Avoid touching the murals—skin oils accelerate deterioration. Lower your camera when rituals are underway; sacred space first, photos second. With kids, make a game of spotting Himmaphan creatures, then let them sketch what they see—a fun learning moment.

 

Nearby links enrich the “Wat Khod Thimtharam – Old Rayong” loop. Yomjinda Road lies roughly half a kilometer away with wooden houses, cafés, and photo spots. The Rayong City Museum is close for a concise port-town history. If you want sea air, Laem Charoen Beach is just over two kilometers by car. And Wat Pa Pradu, another key temple, sits about 1.5–2 km away—easy to pair for a two-temple half day.

 

On the name’s meaning: khod likely refers to an elevated bank or rocky knoll along the river—safe ground above floods. “Thimtharam” links to the founder “Tim,” reflecting an Ayutthaya-to-early-Rattanakosin habit of naming temples after patrons. The combined name records both the landform and the founder.

 

The temple’s relationship with the Rayong River is key to understanding the old city’s landscape. Riverside temples served as boat landings and festival hubs. Almsgiving by boat and fish releases reflect a water-knit life. Some locals still honor Mae Yanang, the river spirit guardian of boats and trade. Roads and bridges may have replaced canals, but memory of the river flows on through ritual and story.

 

Rayong’s merit-making culture favors generosity and teamwork over spectacle. On fair days, neighbors sell homemade foods at friendly prices, with proceeds supporting the temple and education. This “unflashy” quality is the point; it keeps the heart of merit—mutual care—at the center. Visitors who read this rhythm often feel at home quickly.

 

For deeper art study, notice the mural grammar: clear paneling between episodes; a base palette of reds, browns, blacks, and indigo, with white to highlight deities and outlines. Costumes blend courtly motifs with local simplification. Urban backdrops rely on timber architecture with stacked Thai roofs and restrained cho fa finials. Corner stupas in the twelve-indented-corners style at the boundary wall mark continuous care across eras.

 

When to visit? Weekday mornings are calm, with gentle light and fewer people—ideal for lingering with each Jataka. Weekends and afternoons see more families and travelers; sometimes student music drifts from a pavilion, a surprisingly lovely soundtrack. For quiet meditation, late morning before noon can be especially still.

 

A few cautions: interior floors can be slick with fine dust from old plaster. Walk mindfully; don’t lean on walls for photos. Skip selfie sticks indoors. Never touch the murals. With small children, hold hands and explain simply that “these walls are shared treasures.”

 

Environmentally, the grounds hold tall shade trees and a modest herbal plot. In the rainy season the greens deepen and the river rises. In a light drizzle, tree shadows ripple on the water—a good time to sit with bells and rain. For those inclined to practice, evening meditation in the pavilion can be restorative after a day’s travel.

 

All told, Wat Khod Thimtharam is more than an “old temple.” It’s a witness across eras—late Ayutthaya, Rattanakosin, and today’s coastal industrial city. It’s where local craft still works, not just sits on display; where the community still uses a temple for learning and refuge; and where visitors can practice a mindful respect for the past.

 

If you’re planning an unhurried Rayong day, gift half of it to Wat Khod Thimtharam and the old town around Yomjinda. You’ll carry away the white Buddha on the dais, tree shadows on old plaster, cricket hush, and everyday smiles of people who welcome strangers as neighbors. Low budget; long memory.

 

Before you go, check the latest notices from the temple or provincial tourism bodies, especially details of the Songkran fair. Dates and activities (stage shows, parades) can vary by year, as can hours on public holidays. Dress modestly for ceremonies and allow a little extra time for parking.

 

In the end, the temple’s beauty isn’t opulence; it’s honesty. It knows its place in a changing city. Each time someone bows to Luang Pho Khao, each time a child misses a xylophone note and laughs, each time a Jataka panel nudges someone back toward perseverance—the temple fulfills its quiet purpose.

  

 

 Q: When was Wat Khod Thimtharam founded, and by whom?

A: Around BE 2007 (1464 CE) in the late Ayutthaya period, by “Tim,” a former governor of Rayong.

 

A: A complete cycle of “Ten Jataka” murals painted by local artisans, and the revered principal Buddha image “Luang Pho Khao.”

 

A: During Songkran, officially noted as 13–14 April each year (check the year’s announcement for details).

 

A: Generally open daily; most user sources say 06:00–19:30, though some posts note 07:00–17:00. It’s best to call, especially for evenings and public holidays.

 

A: Take a city songthaew to the Yomjinda area, then walk 5–10 minutes along a shaded route past charming wooden houses.

 

A: Pay respects to Luang Pho Khao, view the murals, stroll Yomjinda Road, and drop by the Rayong City Museum—all doable in half a day.

 

A: Dress modestly, do not touch the walls, avoid flash inside, and keep voices low during rituals.

 

A: Ayutthaya-era manuscripts have been shown before; follow temple or local announcements for future displays.

 

A: Walk to Yomjinda Road and the Rayong City Museum, or drive to Laem Charoen Beach—all nearby and easy for a half-day plan.